Charlène Muller, manager of the Domaine Vinsmoselle cellar in Grevenmacher has dug out a number of old gems that she produced several years ago. The selection she has put together is both admirable and unconventional!
This section of Vinorama truly leads to some fantastic discoveries! In this issue, we asked the manager of the Domaines Vinsmoselle cellar in Grevenmacher to share some old vintages from local vineyards.
Grevenmacher is at the northern tip of the Luxembourg Moselle wine region. Limestone dominates the subsoil, surfacing visibly and taking solid form in the unbroken line of cliffs enclosing the valley from Ahn, about ten kilometres to the south. With little arable land and an omnipresent mineral base, the northern half of the Luxembourg Moselle wine region provides ideal conditions for Riesling!
However, in Charlène Muller’s view, seeking out some nice vintages of this grape variety famed for its longevity would be like taking the easy way out: “That would be too simple!” she smiles. “I looked for other types of wines as I wanted to prove that we’re capable of making something other than Riesling in the north!”
On that note, one of the wines discussed in this article is a rarity produced in only two years (2007 and 2008), a Pinot Noir vinified as white wine and moreover matured in barriques, which we never suspected would still be so delicious. It still tastes surprisingly young, almost begging the question of why this limited series is no longer produced.
We also tasted a grape variety that conventional wisdom traditionally associates with the southern Moselle: Gewürztraminer. This particular bottle produced in 2009 in the Göllebour terroir (in Ahn) is worthy of being described as a great wine! It is very delicate and aromatic, the polar opposite of a “bodybuilder” wine, offering the type of finesse that never gets old.
The cellar manager also couldn’t resist presenting two of her guilty pleasures: a magnificent 2002 Pinot Gris late harvest, which has retained its elegance, and a 2010 ice wine (Riesling), a relic to be consciously enjoyed, since these small bottles constitute a form of heritage set inevitably on a path to extinction due to climate change.