Henri Ruppert’s cellar, the wave that suddenly appears above Schengen on the Markusberg hillside, is one of the Luxembourg Moselle valley’s icons. And this makes perfect sense since its owner is also one of the most interesting winegrowers working in the Grand Duchy’s vineyards.

The fourth generation of a family of winegrowers, three of which have played a major role in the history of Domaines Vinsmoselle, Josy Gloden does not want to be thought of only in terms of his status as heir. While he doesn’t reject his background, he does aim to mark...